The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," notes the president.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on